The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide

by Naomi Baker, Gail Brown, and Cindy Kacynski

I didn't plan to write another serger book review so soon, but I really like this one. I ordered it shortly after buying my new Pfaff serger. I am very comfortable with sergers and correcting stitch problems but I wanted to see if I was "missing" anything, especially given the broad capabilities of the new machine.

Indeed I did learn some new things with this book, especially about thread selection and types of serger needles. But the best thing about this book is its exhaustive problem solving section.

It's not an overly long book. It's readable, in fact, and I think that reading through will help a less experienced serger really understand the relationships between needle and looper tensions, stitch lengths, and cutting widths.

And when faced with a specific problem, one can find it in the book and read a succinctly written but comprehensive list of possible solutions. In fact, though I tried, I couldn't think of a darned thing they'd missed in their lists of solutions to various serging problems!

It's truly as if the authors pooled years and years of hands-on serger experience and managed to get it down into an organized, user-friendly format.

In addition to all the problem solving information, there are also sections on how to rip serger stitches, threads and needles, threading tips and errors to look out for, tips for buying a serger, guide to specialty feet, and brand-specific tips. There is even a large glossary defining those esoteric serger terms like "hiccups" and "lettucing."

In short, I would recommend this book to a beginning or advanced serger wholeheartedly.

Serger Secrets

High-Fashion Techniques for Creating Great-Looking Clothes
by Mary Griffin, Pam Hastings, Agnes Mercik, Linda Lee Vivian, and Barbara Weiland

I bought Serger Secrets after perusing it at my friend Jan's house. It's full to the brim with color photos and instructions for techniques are easy to understand.

Besides the sumptuous photos, what I like best about this book is that it does not rely too heavily on the purchase of expensive specialty presser feet. Likewise, there are just as many fun things to do with regular thread as with decorative thread. I have never been a big fan of decorative threads and heavy embellishing, but this book showcases as many practical, everyday uses for your serger.

Some of the techniques in this book are completely new to me. The chain stitch shirring, for example, I find very exciting. The fabric toggle buttons are a charming way to add a subtle embellished detail to a garment. And I really can't wait to try using my serger for zippers!

There is also an extensive section on heirloom serging, something I've really enjoyed experimenting with in the past and look forward to trying again with my TOL Pfaff serger.

Many of the garments in the "Garment Gallery" are much too busy to appeal to me, but they certainly do a good job of illustrating the creative possibilities of serging and inspiring one to try the techniques within, at least in moderation.

There are some inconsistencies in the book. For example, contrary to stated on page 25, one can use all three loopers at once. (Perhaps they are considering the 5-thread chain/overedge stitch as two stitches done at the same time?) I also find the coverstitch photo on page 46 confusing. There are a couple other statements regarding tensions that I would've put differently. But then I'm not the author, am I? And perhaps, just perhaps, my way of explaining things might not always be the best. sigh....

All in all, I definitely do recommend this book. The explanations of threading, tensions, and using decorative threads are overall excellent and well illustrated. There are decorative and practical techniques explained. I also appreciate the reluctance to rely heavily on expensive feet. The photography is engaging and inspiring.

I don't buy a lot of serging books. In fact, I sold the 2 basic serging books I had at a yard sale and only kept Easy Guide to Serging Fine Fabrics by Kitty Benton. After all, one has a serger manual at one's disposal, and one only has so much shelf space. But I'm glad to add Serger Secrets to my sewing library.

The Fishline Hem

The fishline hem is without a doubt my favorite sewing "special effect." I insisted on this finish for my bridal veil before I knew what it was called, or even knew the first thing about sewing or fabrics.

A fishline hem is sort of "bouffant." It has graceful, bouncy, scalloped curves supported by monofilament nylon (fishing line) sewn into the hem. The easiest way to make a fishline hem is with a serger though I'm sure you could use a conventional machine with a zigzag stitch.

Any threads can be used in the serger, including decorative threads such as metallics. If you use a decorative thread in the upper looper, you may want to de-emphasize the needle and lower looper threads by making them the same color as the fabric, or using invisible threads. (You can also do a fishline hem with a 2-thread serger rolled hem for the most delicate effect.)

The fabric should be lightweight enough to work well with a tiny serger rolled hem. The lighter and stretchier the fabric, the more it will curl. Bias cut chiffon or organza work great. Tulle makes beautiful curls. Knits also work nicely.

I have used 20 or 25 pound fishing line. The former is a bit more delicate, the latter will give more pronounced curves.

Here are the steps:

• Cut your fabric on bias or, for a knit or tulle, on the cross grain.
• Set up your serger for 3-thread rolled hem and test it out to make sure it's making a nice, neat edge.
• Place the spool of fishline in your lap, unraveling a couple yards.
  
• If you have a serger foot intended to guide cording, place the fishling line through the hole. Otherswise, you can easily guide it over the "toe" of the foot, then under the needle/loopers as you serge.
  
• Pull at least 10" of fishline to the back of the foot.
• Start serging, making sure the fishline is getting caught in the "roll" of thread.

• Serge about 6" over just the fishline before introducing the fabric. You now have quite a bit of fishline and serged fishline behind the foot.
• Introduce the fabric. You may have to adjust setting to produce the nicest finish. (i.e., if you are getting wiry fabric ends poking through the roll you could increase cutting width to roll more fabric into the hem and/or decrease stitch length to provide more coverage.)
• Serge slowly, making sure to gently guide the fishline. It is easiest if you hold the fabric "tautly" as it goes through the foot. For more immediate curling, stretch the fabric as it feeds. Note in the photo below, I am holding the fabric taut as I also control the feed of the fishline.
• At the end of the fabric, continue serging for about 10" over just fishing line.
  

• Your work may already curling. (My bias muslin sample is not very curly yet, above. It's a fairly heavy fabric for the 20 lb. fishing line. But to make the curls even bouncier:

• Starting in the middle of the hem edge, grasp the hem b/w left thumb and forefinger and use your right hand to slide the stitching over the cord outward towards the ends of the seam.
• Keep working the rolled hem outward. You will see that as the accumulated bunchiness of the threads gets to the edge and then passes off the edge, the excess fishing line that you left there gets "taken up" into the hem. (****Therefore, the longer your fishline ruffle will be, the more of the fishing line you will need extra at each end of the seam before you start!)
  
• The more you stretch and spread out the edge, the curlier it gets! Here is my muslin sample again:

Now you can experiment with decorative threads. Metallic is my favorite. Here is a fishline hem on tulle with variegated metallic in the upper looper:
or gold metallic on peach tulle:
I have also used woolly nylon with metallic sparkles in it. That is available in many colors. Rayon threads are also nice over fishline hems. I like the stitching to be fairly open (longer stitch length)....then the curl seems to "float" around the body of the garment, especially if you've used invisible thread in the needle and lower looper. All that shows is the decorative thread in the shape of the curl, floating around the edge of the fabric.

Fishing line is also available in some crazy fluorescent colors. I bet one could create some interesting effects with those!

Don't forget, you can also use fishline in a 2-thread serger rolled hem for the most delicate look of all.

Pfaff 4874 Serger

After a couple months of agonizing over a new serger purchase, which I've been putting off for about 2 years, I settled on the Pfaff 4874.

It's their top-of-the-line serger and has all kinds of fancy decorative stitches that I will probably rarely, if ever, use. But I wanted the three variaties of coverstitches this machine offers, 2.5mm, 5mm, and a triple needle. I had also had the opportunity to try this machine for a good long time at a friend's house and I was amazed at how nice it sounded, sturdy it was, and how consistently it made perfect stitches on a variety of fabrics using the default settings.

Having now had a couple weeks using the machine I feel I can offer this somewhat limited review, keeping in mind that I have yet to even try any of the decorative, so-called "top cover" stitches.


Overall
I love this serger! It's my 3rd, 4th if you count the mini 3 thread Singer serger I first had many moons ago. It's attractive. It's sturdy and quiet. Speed control is infinitely variable. Controls are in easily accessible positions.

Tensions
In 2 weeks the only time I've had to vary from the pre-set tensions was when I was working with monofilament nylon and metallic thread for a 3-thread rolled hem. In every other application I've encountered, stitch formation has been perfect without adjustment.

A note on tensions with this machine: Raising the presser foot only partially releases tensions. In order to completely release them you must press and hold a button down. As soon as you release the button, the tensions engage again. This is annoying at times, especially when ending a coverstitch.

Memory
In the one case that I've had to fiddle with tensions, I was able to save the settings in memory so that next time I use that combination of threads I can call it up. Each stitch has 3 available memories.


Electronic Screen
The computer screen does a great job of letting one know how to set the needles, knife, stitch finger, and upper looper. It also displays the default tension, stitch length, and differential feed settings. One must scroll through the stitch numbers though, and if you under or over-shoot it is a bit tedious to get to the right number as the machine changes settings at each individual number.

Knife
The knife is a bit awkward to dis- or re-engage because the side door does not open far enough to get good leverage.

Threading
Threading the loopers, including the chainstitch looper, is a breeze. Threading the needles is not difficult, but there are variations on how to thread any of the 5 needles, as they may pass through upper or lower guides before reaching the needle bar. I am still referring to the manual constantly to reference needle thread paths for each stitch.


Presser Foot
The presser foot has two settings itself, A and B, which are easily changed and indicated on the electronic screen. It would be nice if the foot lifted higher at times though I find that I can manually lift up the "toe" of it with my finger when necessary (i.e. when ending a coverstitch, see above.)

Addendum (10/4/07): My friend Jan just told me to try again pushing the presser foot lifter higher, and low and behold, it does lift higher after all! I guess I just wasn't pushing strongly enough. Thanks Jan!

Overall, again
Would I spend $2000 on this machine knowing what I know now? Yes. It does have its imperfections, but I expect any machine would, and they don't affect performance, or efficiency enough to be serious disadvantages.

Turning a Corner on a Serger Hem

I had a job this week hemming cotton napkins. My client has kindly allowed me to use pictures taken during the process. (I do not, of course, charge for time I spend photographing anything!) I want to illustrate how to turn a corner neatly when serger roll hemming.

In this case I am using a 3-thread rolled hem with metallic in the upper looper and thin monofilament nylon (invisible thread) in the needle and the lower looper. You will probably not see the nylon thread in the pictures. It is thinner than a baby's hair.

Note: Monofilament nylon thread is extremely elastic. That means that corresponding tensions must be lowered quite a bit. Metallic also calls for a lower tension than usual, but the adjustment is not as pronounced as with the nylon.

The napkins are square. In order to prepare to turn corners, one must pre-trim the corners on at least 3 of the corners. This is because when you turn the corner and start serging on the next side, you will be placing the top of the new side right under the needle...it must be able to get past the knife. So however much you plan to trim with the serger knife, must be trimmed from the 2nd side of each subsequent corner. Trim them in a wheel formation, turning the square in the same direction each time, so each corner is trimmed in the same orientation, just like this:I just trimmed all four corners so that I could start the hemming with fabric under the foot, but it is not really necessary to trim the first corner, b/c you can feed it from in front of the knife and let the knife trim for you.

Start hemming the first edge at the first corner. As you approach the end of the first side, the 2nd corner, slow down as you approach the end - (note the pre-trimmed corner)
You may need to hand walk the last couple stitches. The goal is to stop stitching right at the edge of the first side, or maybe 1 stitch past.
Once you've come to a stop right at the edge of the end of the first side, raise the needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot -
Here's the tricky part.... Gently remove the work from the stitch finger by pulling it slowly straight towards the back of the machine. You should feel when the "roll" becomes free from the stitch finger. The threads will be "free." The goal is to pull the work only as far back as you need to in order to release the threads so that you can rotate the work to turn the corner.

Rotate the work counterclockwise and snug it up into position so that the very next stitch will go just into the beginning of the 2nd side, right into the end of the previous side's roll. Better still if the needle's first dive goes just before the roll. You will find where on your machine is the best place. On mine, I position the previous side's roll right under the tips of the presser foot's "toes." The right edge of the 2nd side is snugged right up to the knife. (Hence the pre-trimming)
In order to help the serger feed evenly over the roll of the previous side, I place my left index finger next to the presser foot and exert a bit of backward and inward pressure for the first few stitches.In this one you can see the roll forming.
You can also see where the knife will begin cutting when it catches up with your pre-trimmed flap.

Repeat this process for the next 2 corners. With a little practice you will get nice little corners that look like this:
Howevver, sometimes you get a wonky thing sticking out like this:
When that happens you can just cut off the offending bit of fabric and hit it with some Fray Check©.

Ah, but alas, there is always a catch. When you get back to that first corner, where you started stitching, you still will have to just serge off the side and then finish the tail off in whatever manner you usually do. Nothing in life is perfect, right?
Isn't this a gorgeous Robert Kaufman print? It's a treat for me to work with such bright colors...and metallic gold...what else could a girl ask for?

Serger Ramblings

I've got serging on the brain lately as I'm in the market to upgrade to a coverstitch serger. This has led to several things:

1. I went back over some old serger posts and found an error - and really blurry pictures - in Tips on Serging - Beginning, which I've respectively corrected - and replaced - this morning.
2. Husband and I took apart my Kenmore serger last night and removed a part...more on that later.
3. I spent a pleasant couple hours with friend Jan, playing with her new Pfaff 4874, the TOL Pfaff serger. ("Kid in a candy shop" is the phrase that comes to mind.)
   

More on taking apart the Kenmore.
It's a 4-thread model on which I spent only about $250. I really like the Kenmore. It's smooth and sturdy and I seem to have an easy time maneuvering around curves with it. I do miss the 2-thread capability of my previous serger though.

One problem with the Kenmore has been the lower looper thread being under too much tension. I would have to set the lower looper tension dial a couple notches lower than the other 3 threads to achieve a balanced stitch. And often in decorative applications the LL thread would break. I suspected the problem resided in this front guide, where I could hear, and feel, the thread getting caught up on the LL side only (right, cream thread) - not the UL side (left, red thread.)
Figuring I'm going to upgrade anyway, I got out the screwdriver (and my mechanically talented Hubby) to investigate.

Turns out, there was a tension mechanism inside the right side of this guide. When one moves the lever directly above it from STD (standard stitch) to RH (rolled hem stitch), it should engage this extra tension on the LL thread. It's basically a mechanical "automatic" tension setting for a rolled hem. So, the user does not have to think to increase the lower looper tension when switching to rolled hemming, but simply slide the lever to "RH." But the thread was getting caught in there no matter whether it was set on STD or RH.

After trying a couple times to get this little extra tension disk to work properly my husband just removed it, at my urging. He was reluctant b/c "it's supposed to be there. It's like taking the emission detector out of a car." But personally, I found it liberating. I'm thinking, "I can figure out how to set the lower looper tension for a rolled hem on my own, thank you, and I don't need the stupid dummy lever!" In the end I won out b/c we just couldn't get it to work right.

I wish I'd taken photos of the inside of the serger. It's like a mysterious mass of metal in there. And, amazingly, bits of fabric, thread, and lint, manage to get deep inside.

Fun with the TOL Pfaff Serger
I had just test sewed a mid-level Pfaff serger a few days before sitting down with Jan and her new toy so I was already a bit familiar with what the new sergers can do. I have to tell you....they are really fun! Contrary to some of what I've heard, converting to coverstitch, at least in the two Pfaffs I tried, is not difficult.

One minor disillusionment I discovered is that, on the Coverstyle model at least, the width of the coverstitch is not adjustable. I'm not sure if that is true on the 4874 or other brand models. Changing the coverstitch width would involve using different needle positions and I'm not yet sure if that's workable.

Both Pfaff sergers require serger needles. Also a bit of a disappointment as I love being able to interchange serger and SM needles. They are Schmetz, however, and shouldn't be difficult to find.

But the stitches and the quality of them....beautiful! I was especially impressed with the 2-thread rolled hem and flat lock.

And maneuverability of the fabric around curves - also impressive! Even with a 5-thread chain/overlock combination.

The 4874 has more stitch options than the Coverstyle, including the triple coverstitch, which I was kind of hoping to have. But is that one stitch (and a bunch of other fun but purely decorative stitches which I'll rarely use), worth twice the money? I think not. I have to be reasonable after all.

So, my head is swimming with visions of a new serger, and a new workspace. I'd like to have two SM's and two sergers set up at all times. My Necchi Supernova workhorse and Pfaff 7570 side by side. And the Kenmore and Coverstyle around the corner. Hmmmm........
Honestly, when you can have all this....why ever would you want to golf??????

Tips on Serging - Beginning

Many people are literally afraid of their serger. They buy them and never take them out of the box, or try them out once or twice, get frustrated, and put them away forever.

I guess I can understand it...sergers (why-oh-why, in 2007, don't spell checkers recognize "serger?")... are complicated looking. Scary almost. With 4-8 cones of thread all strung up fancier than Christmas lights, 6 or 7 numbered dials, multiple levers, and don't forget the (gasp) knives. And if you open it up, there is what appears to be a mass of tangled machinery, the loopers and their threading mechanisms, that somehow move in concert to produce the various stitches. It can be intimidating.

With some time and practice, you can be as comfortable with your serger as you are with your conventional machine. I've taught classes on basic serging, fishline hems, and serging with decorative threads. I'd like to give you some hints that might bring you closer to your 4-threaded friend.

• Get some serger books. There are a lot of them out there. My favorite is Serging Fine Fabrics by Kitty Benton. It covers the basics but spends more time on actual applications so you might also want a "beginning serging" type of book.
  
• Set aside some time (you will need several hours, but not all at once) to just play with the serger. Thread each needle and looper with a different color. Match the thread colors to the threading guide colors on the serger body, or in the manual. You may wish to use masking tape or sticky notes to label each tension dial until you've internalized which is which.

Amass a huge collection of scraps, mostly muslin or other stable fabric in the beginning. Tear them all to strips of about 3-4" wide.

Start with all tensions at "normal" or 3-5, stitch length of 3, and medium cutting width. Using muslin or other stable fabric, just run strips through. Usually, right out of the box, the machine is set up properly to make a balanced stitch.

When you start stitching, notice where each colored thread ends up. Notice that the upper looper thread sits on the upper side of the fabric. The lower looper sits underneath the fabric. Notice where the needle threads are.

When you've learned what a standard balanced stitch looks like, and understand which colored thread ends up where, try adjusting the stitch lengths very high, then very low, and see what it does to the appearance of the stitch.

Once you're comfortable adjusting stitch length, try playing with looper tensions. Adjust only one at a time, always leaving the other at normal. On one long strip, make the upper looper tension very loose and see what happens. Then make the upper tension very tight and see what happens. Repeat with another scrap and the lower looper. Notice how the threads pull on each other. For example, a very high lower looper thread tension will pull the upper looper towards the back. A very high upper looper thread tension will pull the lower looper thread to the front. It's like a constant arm wrestling match between looper thread tensions.

When you're comfortable with stitch length and tension, you can play with cutting width. The thing to remember about cutting width is that the larger it is, the more fabric is incorporated into the stitch. It is like stitch width on a conventional machine.

Now play with the differential feed, all other settings normal. On one fabric strip turn it all the way up. On the next, turn it all the way down. Observe what happens.

• Differential feed is a handy tool. Basically, there are two sets of feed dogs. One in front and one behind. At a "normal" setting, both sets move at the same time, just as on a conventional sewing machine.
  

If you turn the differential feed dial to a higher number, the front feed dogs move relatively faster than the back. In effect, the slower back dogs make the fabric tend to bunch up under the foot. This is useful in a couple instances:

~when you want to keep fabric from stretching under the pressure of the presser foot as might be the case when serging a bias or knit edge.
~when you want to ease the bottom layer of fabric to a shorter top layer
~when you want to ease a single layer of fabric, as in prior to hand-hemming a circular skirt
~when you want to gather a very lightweight fabric

If you turn the differential feed dial to a lower number, the front feed dogs move relatively slower than the back. In effect, the faster back feed dogs "pull" the fabric through under the foot. This is useful when:

~You want to stretch a fabric as you serge, as on a long bias or stretch lengthwise seam
~you want to produce "curling" or waving on a rolled edge, such as a "lettuce" edge on a knit or a scalloped fishline hem
~you are having trouble keeping a very lightweight fabric (i.e. silk chiffon) from puckering or gathering under the presser foot

• Threading the serger need not be the bane of your existence. Most of the time you can thread the loopers by simply tying on the new threads. To do this, cut the old threads just above their cones. Put the new thread cones on and tie the new thread colors to the old, dangling threads with over hand knots. Release looper tensions and pull the thread knots all the way through.

When threads break is usually when you have to thread the loopers "from scratch." To do this you must follow the manual or illustration inside the serger front door. The key to success when threading from scratch is to make sure that the threads are correctly oriented before they pass under the presser foot. The looper threads in particular must be completely independent of each other, and the lower looper thread crossed in front of the upper looper thread. Try not to get the lower looper thread "trapped" between the upper looper thread and the upper looper mechanism. It may help to always thread the upper looper first. Get in the habit of noting how they look before you start stitching. If they're not independent the threads will tangle and break shortly after you start stitching. (For this reason, until you are familiar with the initial threading of your serger, take the first few stitches by hand before flooring it.)

On my serger, either of these two initial configurations work. The upper looper thread is red.

The important thing is to learn how it should look on your serger.

Overall, the key to becoming comfortable with your serger is to use it. Experiment with it. Don't be intimidated. It's a tool that vastly broadens your sewing capabilities. You be the boss.

****Edited 8/8/07 to correct written mistake and upload better pictures.

Easier than Easy

One last easy summer skirt.

This one, burda 8677 again (3rd time), doesn't even have a closure. It's polyester jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics and has enough stretch to make it over my hips and still fit my waist without gathers.

I simply serged together two yokes at their side seams, then sewed them together around the waistline. Instead of using stay tape, I used 1/4" elastic, sewn to the seam allowance with just slight stretching to snug it up against my waist. I understitched the facing yoke. Then I turned the yoke facing inside and basted the raw edges at the bottom edge of the yoke together. This less fuzzy picture is the back - The skirt seams are also serged. Then the skirt is serged to the lined yoke.

Lastly, the hem is, you guess it, serger rolled hemmed. From cutting to completion this skirt took less time to construct than to pre-wash and dry.

Serger Rolled Hem

A serger rolled hem can be done with 2 or 3 threads, depending on the capabilities of your machine. The 3-thread is generally easier to control. The 2 thread gives a more delicate finish sometimes nicer for fine sheer fabrics.

Follow the manual to set up your serger for rolled hemming. On newer machines it often just involves sliding a lever. On others it might require changing the needle plate. Additionally, if you intend to use only 2 threads, there must be a mechanism by which the upper looper is bypassed. (On my previous serger there was a small metal piece that fit into the upper looper allowing the lower looper thread to ignore it.)

Always experiment on scraps before starting on your actual piece.

Many people want to keep a record of exactly what settings work for a particular stitch. It's common for people to keep a sort of serging journal - when they find a stitch they like, they staple a piece of the serged fabric to a paper on which they've recorded all the tension, stitch length, differential feed, and cutting width settings. That's fine and actually a good idea in the beginning.

However, chances are that next time you go to make the same stitch, the settings will be a little different. So it's important to realize that when you pull out your stitch reference your settings will be relatively similar, not identical.

For example, for a 3-thread rolled hem, the lower looper tension will be higher than the needle or upper looper tension, and the stitch length will be somewhat lower than usual. The lower looper tension will not always be, say, 7. There are just too many variables to anticipate - fabric content and weave (i.e., georgette or chiffon?), cut of the fabric (true bias, partial bias, cross-grain, lengthwise?), thread content, type, and tension on the spool, needle type and size, even weather. (Yup, I truly believe the weather matters!)

Variables

Use your scraps to fine tune the settings:

• Sometimes you might want more thread coverage for a prominent roll, other times you might want the stitches to be very open and inconspicuous.
  
• You may want the smallest roll possible, in which case you can try tightening both looper tensions even further, decreasing cutting width, and/or changing thread types (mono-filament nylon, for example, is quite elastic and might squeeze the roll tighter.) A 2-thread hem will also be more delicate than a 3-thread. ~
  

• You may want an obvious, prominent roll, as for table linens or accessories. Try increasing cutting width, using a smaller stitch length, and perhaps a fatter thread, perhaps a beefy decorative thread such as perle cotton or ribbon. (More on serging with specialty threads in a future post.) You might even run some cording into the roll to give it some heft and stiffness. Remember, you're the boss. This rolled hem was done with a thick gold metallic decorative thread ~

• You can run wire through the roll (very carefully so it doesn't hit the knives) and make your own wired ribbon.
  
• You can run fishing line through the roll for a graceful, scalloped edge. (more in a future post.) ~

• You can attach lace or other trim with a rolled hem. This is an especially elegant application ~

• Run over a fold without cutting, the rolled hem makes nice pin tucking.
• Note: You can use rolled hem settings without actually rolling the fabric. The idea here is to increase lower looper tension relative to upper looper tension. The upper looper thread will then wrap completely around to the back of the fabric, giving the nice coverage of a rolled hem without the rolling. Especially useful for finishing the edges of thick decorator fabrics. You can do this over the regular stitch finger while cutting for an even edge.
  

Problem Solving

Whiskers - This is how I describe when fabric thread ends stick out from the rolled hem like, well, whiskers. It can be especially problematic on bias cuts. There are several ways to deal with whiskers (besides bleach or wax.)

• Try increasing cutting width. Having more fabric in the roll helps those fiber ends become secured inside the roll.
• Try decreasing stitch length. More thread coverage may secure the whiskers.
• Woolly nylon thread spreads over the surface of the roll providing coverage than regular thread.
• Press a fold into the edge of the fabric, then do the serged hem over the folded edge, without cutting.
  
• Run a length of straight grain fabric along the hem as you serge. Understand that this will make the roll beefier and eliminate any stretch.
  

Waving - This is when the hem edge stretches as you serge, forming waves or undulations. Sometimes you want that waviness as it's quite feminine and lacy looking. But if you want a straight edge here's what to do:

• If possible do all hemming on straight or cross grain. (i.e. for napkins or scarves.) Note: cross grain will sometimes wave when straight doesn't. Remember, cross grain is stretchier than lengthwise. If that happens, you may have to turn up differential feed on the cross grain edges only.
• Turn up the differential feed slightly. Anytime you have trouble with a fabric stretching under the serger foot, this is the thing to do.
• Use your fingers to push fabric towards the presser foot as it feeds. Just as you would on a conventional SM if you were stay-stitching.
• Try starching the edges first.

Roll comes off edge of fabric - Don't you hate when rolls get away from you??? Seriously, this is when the rolled hem just detaches from the body of the fabric. It's quite disturbing when it happens. But you can fix it:

• Increase cutting width. This in effect places the stitches further into the body of the fabric, giving them more "grip."
• Decrease stitch length. The denser the stitches, the more perforated the fabric is and the more likely it is to come apart.
• Use a smaller needle for smaller holes.
• In extreme cases, you may have to pre-fold the fabric edge and serge over the fold, as above.

A serger is worth having just for the rolled hemming. It's fast and fun and gives a very professional finish.

Looper Tension and Cutting Width

Everything in serging is relative. Looper tensions relate to each other. And cutting width relates to looper tensions.

Tension is difficult for people to understand. When the thread passes through the tension dials, it is actually sandwiched between two disks, like plates. The higher the tension setting, the harder the disks squeeze together. The harder the disks squeeze together on the thread, the less thread passes through and into the stitch. The tension disks, in effect, hold the thread back.

Cutting width is easier to understand. It refers to the distance between the needles and the knife. The larger the cutting width, the more fabric is incorporated into the stitch.

Note: Unlike on a conventional sewing machine, the needles on a serger do not move side to side. Stitch width is a factor of two things...cutting width (fabric) and looper tensions (thread.)

Remember these two principles:

1. Thread - The less looper tension, the more of that looper thread will be allowed into the stitch. The tighter the looper tension, the less of that thread will make it into the stitch.
2. Fabric - The larger the cutting width, the more fabric will be incorporated into the stitch. The smaller the cutting width, the less fabric will be incorporated into the stitch.

Really understanding those two points will enable you to make any stitch adjustments on any fabric.

To make a stitch wider, you must give it more fabric (increase cutting width), and more thread (decrease looper tensions.) If you do only one, the stitch will not be balanced. If there is too much fabric relative to the amount of thread, the fabric will curl inside the too-tight stitch. If there is too much thread relative to the amount of fabric, the loose stitches will hang off the raw edge.

For example, say you are serging along and you notice that your stitch is hanging off the edge of the fabric, like this:
If you look closely at my lousy photo you'll notice that the tops of the threads extend past the edge of the muslin. You can see purple right through them.

Either there is too much thread, or there is too little fabric. (In serging, everything is relative!) So, you can fix the problem with either principle #1 or #2 from above.

Using principle #1 - There is too much thread in the stitch, b/c it's hanging off the end of the fabric. To get less thread in the stitch, you need more tension. Tighten both looper tensions and the stitch should snug up to the edge of the fabric.

Using principle #2 - There is too little fabric in the stitch. Increase the cutting width and more fabric will be incorporated into the stitch, and the threads will be "filled up" with fabric.


Note: Principle #1 also applies to balancing looper threads against each other. If it looks like there is not enough lower looper thread, and the upper looper thread is being pulled underneath:
then you must lessen the lower looper tension.

If on the other hand, the lower looper thread is being pulled to the front:
then you must decrease the upper looper tension.

Tension is very much like a constant tug-of-war match between the upper and lower looper threads. The more tension you give to one, the more strength it has, and the more it will pull the other to its own side. (Taking the metaphor even further...the more tension a thread has, the more its muscles contract, the shorter its rope gets and the more it pulls the opposite thread over to its side.) Don't let one looper thread get the better of the other with too much tension.

Of course, you can't be forever tightening one tension then the other to keep them in balance. Eventually you will have too much tension in both loopers and the fabric will curl under the stitch (then you have a rolled hem...topic for another post.) I recommend first loosening a tension to try to balance a stitch. If that is not enough you can then tighten the opposite thread a bit as well.

Once you've internalized the way that thread tensions work with each other and cutting width, you'll be able to solve most serging problems intuitively. Really!