Flocked, Taffeta Cocktail Skirt

I needed something for an evening event...something fast and inexpensive! This decorator fabric is from the sale table at JoAnn's.

I've always wanted a gathered ruffly, swishy skirt in taffeta. But for me, gathers around the waist is a no-no. So, I used a yoked skirt to place the fullness further down. I used my trusty Burda 8677 for the yoke, and Butterick 5041 for the skirt. (Why mess with fitting another yoke?)

I was wisely advised by two friends to make it knee length and wore it with this kimono sleeve, deep cowl sweater, black tights and black velvet wedges. Cost of fine merino sweater, $16.99 at Marshalls. Cost of skirt fabric $15. Shoes: free (I've had them at least 3 years.) Tights: $4.99.

Another woman there had on a gorgeous thigh length, subtly colored, metallic brocade jacket. When I complimented her on it she said the fabric was from the sale table at Hancock's. Ladies....the power is in our hands!

The Collection

by Gioia Diliberto

At Chanel the workrooms were by no means palatial, and Mademoiselle did little for her employees' comfort - we sat on hard benches, there was no comfortable dining room or cloak room, the ventilation was bad. But the spirit of artistry compensated for the lack of amenities. The work was organized around time-honored traditions, and most of it was done by hand. How else could you control the fabric and shape a garment? Sewing machines were used sometimes for seams and to assemble the heavier garments. But the machines could never replace human hands.

This story of a young woman, Isabelle Varlet, who comes to Paris to work for Chanel while mourning the loss of her fiancé, is steeped in haute couture. That is the best way I can think of to describe it.

Couture is as much a character in the book as is Isabelle, maybe more. In fact, at times I thought Isabelle was lost to it, though perhaps that was the point....she escapes into the world of couture and it becomes her life... and she often seems strangely stoic about the happenings in her personal life.

Reading, I couldn't help wondering how accurate was the depiction of Gabrielle Chanel? Was she really that driven - that ruthless? And within the world of haute couture itself...how much jealousy and backstabbing!

More than anything, the sheer immensity of the couteriers' egos amazed me. But then, I thought, if the characters competing on Project Runway are the slightest indication, I guess it does make sense!

I am not much of a fashionista and certainly not familiar with fashion history. But I came away from this book with an appreciation of how profoundly Chanel impacted modern fashion. I have usually equated Chanel with the boxy cardigan style jacket, bouclé, with wide binding. But now I've learned that it was so much more than that. It was a revolution in what was, and still is, considered feminine and sexy. That a casual, less structured shape, allowed a woman a certain subtle, mysterious, and wholly individual appeal. At least that is my new, if poorly articulated, understanding of Chanel's impact.

Mademoiselle's lips curved up slyly. "You don't think short hair is sexy?"

"Let me tell you something, Varlet. A woman's mind is the sexiest thing about her. Even a plain girl who keeps herself neat, who doesn't get fat, who dresses nicely and has interests, is sexier than a beauty with no intelligence and no style."

And so, I also learned that sizeism, and ageism, are not new phenomena.

I also learned that my visceral disinclination to insert a label into an unfinished garment is shared even in haute couture as they are just as superstitious. They are also wont to sew a hair into a special hem, and save a tiny snippet of a completed work, loathe to give it up completely to its new owner. Now, we have digital photos that serve the same purpose!

Conclusion: Although Isabelle is likable enough, the more engaging character here is haute couture as a whole, and Gabrielle Chanel in particular. Not to be missed by any garment sewer or fashion enthusiast.

Some Considerations for Fabric Shopping

Anyone who sews is bound to admit that fabric shopping is half the fun. Most of us have a stash, some more voluminous than others. I don't really have a very large stash. I have 3 large drawers of fabric, sorted into silk, wool, and cotton & linen. And 2 "piles" of things that don't fit in the drawers on my shelves. Oh, and small scraps upstairs in the hall closet in a huge plastic bin. But those really belong to my daughter. Really.

I try not to buy fabric that I won't use immediately but of course there are some pieces that I simply MUST have. You know, the pieces that call to you from across the room and then speak directly to your soul. Usually I'm not sorry I've bought those and even if it takes years, they eventually make it into a garment.

The fabrics I end up kicking myself for, and then giving away, are the ones that usually I've bought b/c they are "a really good deal." Or something that I think I'll make into a gift for someone but never find the time. Or something that I buy for a sort of "run of the mill" garment that I am never sufficiently motivated to make b/c I can buy something that fits well enough.

And then, of course, we all have made the "what was I thinking" mistakes. Or, now, the kids would say, "what, were you on crack?!" You know what I mean...you've got at least one piece like that, right?

So, then, here is a brief list of fabric buying considerations for new as well as seasoned sewers ~ some of the things that go through my mind when I purchase yardage.

• If I can buy something that fits and looks similar, it's generally less expensive to buy RTW.
• Does this fabric really speak to me? If I go home and leave it here will I care tomorrow? (Sometimes the only way to know is to go home and leave it there.)
• Does it feel wonderful?
  
• What's going to happen to this fabric in the wash?
• Is it washable at all?
  
• How wrinkly is this fabric? (Scrunch it up in your hand to test.)
• Is this too sheer to wear alone? Hold up to the light by the window in the shop.
• Is the print on grain? If not, you will have to choose between an on-grain layout and a crooked print.
• How loosely woven is this? Loosely woven fabrics can slip at the seams.
• How much sizing is in this stuff?
• Will I have to match the plaid, stripe, or print?
• Is there a nap?
• Is this fabric worth my time and effort?
• For how many seasons might I like this fabric? I might not get to it this season.
• How long will it last?
• Are there special sewing considerations...Will I need special needles, shears, thread?
• Is this worth precious space in my sewing room?
  
• What will I wear this with?
• Will I really wear this in public???

Any other thoughts?

Before You Alter that Garment

Before you bring your garment in for alterations, please make sure of the following ~

• The garment is clean and pressed. Pressing required in the sewing process will often render soiled areas permanently stained. (Also, it's illegal for me to work on soiled clothes.)
  

• Garment is pre-washed (at home, not just in manufacturing) or dry-cleaned. This way, most of any potential shrinkage has occurred.

• Come to your fitting wearing the undergarments you will wear with the clothing to be altered. Different bras and hose can make a huge difference in fit.

• Don't forget the shoes!

7 Advantages of Custom Clothing

Having a garment custom made isn't just for the rich and famous. It's for anyone who wants a custom fitted investment piece for their wardrobe. (Well, OK, sometimes it is for someone who needs to look slightly like a cartoon character for their graduate thesis performance piece, but not usually.)

Here are some advantages of having it made just for you:

• It fits!
• No one else at the party will have the same thing.
• It will last longer than most things you purchase RTW (ready-to-wear)
• You can choose exactly the fabric, style lines, and details that make your heart sing.
• Your friends will be jealous. OK, that's maybe a bit mean-spirited, but I'm only human.
• Did I mention it fits??
• You deserve it.
  

5 Tips for Clothes Shopping

1. Go clothes shopping when you are well-rested and feel good about yourself. Try not to leave shopping until the last minute when you are desperate to find something for a particular occasion.
2. Wear slip on shoes for easy trying on. Wear appropriate undergarments.
3. Pause for a sit, a drink, and a snack to keep your energy up.
   
4. If possible, leave your purse at home. Perhaps you have a small wallet you can carry in a zipped pocket with cell phone and keys in another pocket. You'll have two hands to work with and one less item to juggle. (Hey, if you're on a really serious mission, consider borrowing a baby carriage...sans enfant, to cart your stuff around in.
   
5. Bring a friend who is sensible, encouraging, and truthful in a positive way.
   

Modern Bloomers?

I've been thinking lately, that though I love the look and the idea of wearing dresses and skirts, part of the problem with them is that I feel sort of "naked" underneath. (Also, I once got stung on the butt by a panicked bee that had flown up my skirt.)

So, I think that what I'd like to have is a pair of "bloomers." Not big, puffy, old-fashioned bloomers. Just something very light, fairly straight, to just above knee length. They would be made of batiste or lawn, ecru, with a narrow elastic or drawstring waist. (Maybe I'd need a nylon or silk pair to keep them from clinging.)

I did a little online research on bloomers, knickers, and pantaloons to see what's available out there. I got a lot of period costumes, a lot of "French" lingerie, and - for bloomers - a lot of florists. Some of what I found follows (except the French lingerie...you're on your own for that.)

JumpinBloomers offers affordable bloomers in the traditional, gathered under the knee style, in a variety of fabrics for women and girls.

Here's a site with instructions to make your own (though you can use any p.j. pant or slip on pant or short pattern you already have) - Basic Bloomers These are very loose and voluminous though, not to be worn under any skirt or dress with a shaped waist and hip.

Lydia of Purple appears to be a Christian-based, modesty-oriented site. I especially like the look of the "Florida" style...simple, feminine, and not too full around the hip and waist. Note, prices on the site have actually been doubled, which is not noted until the order form page.

Bloomers4U offers quite a variety of undergarments including bloomers and knickers, some of the latter just the right length.

Anne Bonney, in Portland, OR offers straighter "knickers" in a nice selection of styles. If these were a bit longer, I'd be sold.

All in all, I'd have to say there isn't a lot available out there. Fortunately for us sewers, we can do it ourselves!

Having a Garment Custom Made

So, what is the process like? Here's a brief synopsis:

1. We set a consultation appointment. This is a 15 minute appointment in which we discuss your ideas (come with as many pictures, drawings, colors, etc...that you can find) and options.

I may give you a very rough estimate of cost. I will give you copies of my business policy and contract. I take some time (generally less than 2 days), generate an estimate, and email, phone, or mail it to you.

2. Once you confirm that you would like to go ahead with the project we set an appointment for measurements to be taken. This is a half-hour appointment during which I will take between four and 20 measurements depending on the complexity of the garment and what type of pattern I plan to use.

You should wear your best undergarments, hose or tights if desired, and a close fitting top.

Note: You do not need a pseudonym for your measurements...I promise I won't advertise them!

Also at this time, I take a deposit on the work, and we schedule an appointment for a fitting of the "muslin", or mock-up garment.

3. Before the first fitting, I will analyze your measurements and prepare the mock-up garment. A mock-up is made of muslin or other inexpensive material and is used to test fit before more expensive fashion material is cut.

At this fitting I will evaluate the mock-up and make notes as to changes. The mock-up is never perfect (if it was, there'd be no need for one.)

4. Unless there are major changes to be made to the patterns after the mock-up fitting, the next fitting will be in the partially completed fashion garment.

Often I will leave the closures, collars, and other details unfinished at this point. The garment fit is refined (the garment fabric will fit differently than the mock up fabric) and we set another appointment.

5. This may or may not be the last fitting.

If it is, you will try on the finished garment and approve.

Balance due is collected.

You will receive your altered paper patterns and any sizable scraps of garment fabric (save them for shoe shopping, test cleaning, or future alterations to the garment.)

Note: Sometimes more fittings are necessary due to a complex design or fitting issue. I do not charge for extra fittings unless there are design changes to the garment after the initial estimate, or there is significant weight loss or gain.


***I would much rather answer your questions than have you hesitate to commission custom clothing, so please ask. And by the way, I think every woman should have at least one fabulous custom made garment in her wardrobe!

Bra sizes

It's not difficult to find bra sizing guides online. Many of them will simply tell you to take a measurement around your chest just below your bust and add 5" to that measurement. If you get an odd number, they say, round up to the next even number (reason being that bra sizes come in even numbers.)

Then they instruct you to take a full bust measurement. Subtract the band size you just calculated from that to get a cup size.

Now, if you watch any daytime TV you have probably seen shows such as TLC's What Not to Wear or Oprah. Both shows have done features on bra sizing. The overwhelming problem exposed on those shows was that of women wearing a bra that is too big in the band and too small in the cup. On both these TV specials, when they got women into the right bras, smaller bands and bigger cups, the effect was astounding. Their busts were neater and higher, they looked much younger, and were more comfortable. Some of them literally cried tears of joy over the improvement.

Why the difference in performance of the bras?

If the band is snugger, more of the weight of the bust is supported by the broad band at the chest, rather than the skimpy bands over the shoulders. On the other hand, if the band is too loose, the weak shoulder straps are pulled forward by the weight of the breasts and the loose band is pulled upward on the back. Posture is also improved by a snugger band - in the same way it is for a hiker who has a proper backpack with a wide, snug strap around the waist, rather than just straps over the shoulders. Furthermore, the larger cup provides the breast with somewhere to sit. It's not straining and creating all kinds of tension on the shoulder straps (not to mention unsightly bumps and bulges.)

Why so much confusion among women regarding bra size?

Because they have, or those that fit them have, followed the "formula" blindly, never thinking it could be wrong, or that a bra should or could fit better. But take a look at how it works:

1. You take a chest measurement and round to the nearest whole number, let's say 30"
2. You add 5 to that which gives you 35"
3. You have to round up to 36" b/c bra bands only come in even numbers and that is what they say to do
   
4. You take a full bust measurement of, say, 38"
5. You subtract 38-36=2"
6. This makes you a B-cup

Look at what's happened here....An inch is added to the band to make it "even." That same inch is then subtracted from the cup size, i.e, subtracting 36" instead of 35" makes her a B instead of a C. So, instead of what could be a 34C, this poor woman is convinced she is a 36B. To compound the problem, after a few wears, the elastic in her band relaxes somewhat, making it even looser. No wonder the girls are down to her navel. She is uncomfortable (b/c her bra band is up at the nape of her neck) and unhappy with her figure. Why bother with the bra at all?

OK, there are some sites with guides that are a bit more specific and many of them do correctly stress that the calculations give you a size that is a starting point only. I found a couple that use a high bust measurement as a band size instead of the whole under-the-bust-plus-however-many-inches thing. And I was surprised to find that Jockey's bra fitting calculator came up with my correct bra size. However, it was the only one of the many I tried, as the vast majority of them gave me a band size too big and cup too small.

So, whatever the size, evaluate how a bra looks and feels on your unique body. If something is not quite right, especially try to go down a band size and up a cup size.

No two bodies are the same. This is a fact that, after 10 years of sewing for others, never ceases to amaze me.

Sewing Titles and Terms

Couture - In France, Haute Couture is a term regulated by law and restricted to design houses that meet exacting criteria. Gowns are made meticulously by hand (literally by hand stitching) and cost in the tens of thousands. Sometimes dressforms are made to exactly match clients' bodies. In our culture Couture is used more loosely to mean "the finest sewing" or "the finest ready-to-wear." See today's Gorgeous Things' Blog for more insight into haute couture. For more extensive reference, check out Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques.

Dressmaker - A dressmaker specializes in making women's dresses (and, occasionally, men's...I kid you not...men who wear dresses have a very hard time getting good fit in RTW after all.) Unfortunately, I'm told the term has come to be somewhat associated with "home made" as opposed to "custom made." I say unfortunately b/c it really is an apt term for what a lot of us do.

Tailor - Traditionally a tailor makes men's suits. Tailoring refers to the detailed process by which the wool is shaped with specialized interfacings, handstitching and pressing techniques. To the non-sewer however, having something "tailored" often means having RTW altered to fit.

Alterationist - One who specializes in altering ready-to-wear clothes to fit actual human beings. Alterations can be very complex and rarely encompass the same procedure twice, so a broad knowledge of garment construction is required.

Seamstress - A seamstress runs a sewing machine. She (or he, in the case of a seamster) is likely a factory worker accustomed to sewing the same seam over and over.

Modiste - I love this word and it appears to be making a comeback, at least in the blogosphere. It means, simply, one (a woman in particular) who makes or deals in women's fashions. It also often refers to a milliner (hat maker.)

Designer - Designers may or may not sew. (If they don't they're probably not the best designer if you ask me.) They conceive new styles and combinations of styles for either custom clothing or production.

Patternmaker - A patternmaker draws the flat paper patterns that will be used as templates to cut the fabric pieces of a garment. Some patternmakers make patterns according to industry conventions to be used in the production of ready-to-wear. Others create one of a kind patterns for individual clients.

Sewist - This is a relatively new term, derived from "sewer" and "artist." Many who are passionate about sewing use it to indicate that they are doing something more than utilitarian sewing. For example...one might "plant bulbs", or "garden". One is a chore and the other a passion, a fine craft. Also, we do hate to be confused with waste water drainage facilities.

***Interesting word I learned from Tim Gunn's book (review here.) ***

Sartorial - relating to tailoring, clothing, style, or manner of dress.
sartorial. Dictionary.com. Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1). Random House, Inc. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/sartorial (accessed: April 26, 2007)

Tim Gunn - A Guide to Quality, Taste, and Style

I couldn't resist this new book by Tim Gunn of Project Runway fame and Kate Moloney, his assistant at Parsons.

It arrived yesterday and I'm almost sad to say that I'm done reading it. I wish it were a bit longer, more exhaustive, more idiot-proof in its advice. I wish it had color photographs of the featured style mentors. I wish I had been able to find my dictionary. (Tim Gunn is known to have an impressive vocabulary, and, as I've just learned, must also have an extensive knowledge of both classic literature and popular culture.)

There is nothing, however, pretentious or stuffy about the book. Its tone is down to earth and the writing is conversational. Best of all, it is written with real, everyday women in mind. (Not those who make a living on their looks via dieting and the gym.)

The book encourages us to evaluate, mercilessly, what is in our closets, pare down on the quantity of clothing and concentrate instead on the quality. (Quality not necessarily equating expensive, but in terms of usefulness and versatility.) Ten essential fashion items are suggested. Then we are guided through shopping via various venues such as the discount store, online, or boutiques.

Tim does not shy away from frank discussion of some common but embarrassing fashion faux pas. Dressing too young or old, poor posture, and clunky walking to name a few. (It's worth the price of the book just to assure yourself you are not committing any of these sins!)

There is also a handy section offering fashion guidelines for common occasions such as weddings and office parties, and also helping to decode some of the confusing terms one might find on an invitation today, such as "California Casual."

I do wish that the authors had spent some time encouraging people to have fitting alterations done to their RTW. After all, I am a firm believer that the right alteration can take a garment "from frumpy to fabulous." Perhaps this point was implicit in the writing but I'm afraid many will miss it.

Also, for me personally as someone who works with clothing design and construction on a daily basis, I found the most inspirational tidbit in the book was not directly about fashion and style, but in Tim's explanation of his oft quoted advice "Make it Work."

I plan to recommend this book to friends and clients. I also will peruse it again myself, this time in front of the computer so I can google images of the fashion mentors and designers as I go. All in all, a fun and informative read!

What is Good Fit?

So what is "fit?" It does not mean accommodate the body (i.e., if you're in it, it fits,) nor does it mean form exactly to the body's shape (unless you're Cat Woman.) Here are some quick ways to judge fit when trying on RTW:

• The bodice's length should correspond to your torso's length. Many times the waistline of a dress or blouse is too long/low for my clients. They consider themselves "short-waisted." If this sounds familiar you may want to try "petites" for blouses and dresses, especially when sleeve length is not an issue as in sleeveless or short sleeved styles.
  

• Darts point to, and come within 2" of, the apex. Darts are deep enough to provide the right amount of fullness. Note: Women with busts sized C and larger are most flattered by styles with well-placed darts rather than flat, boxy styles. You might also consider princess seams and raglan sleeves.
  

• Vertical seams hang vertically and horizontal seams stay horizontal when garment is worn.
  

• Garment shoulder points (where sleeve and shoulder seam meet) sit at the crest of the wearer's shoulder cuff and base of armhole is high enough to permit arm to move freely.
  

• Necklines do not gape.

• Armholes do not gape. (again....a very common problem for women with C-cup and above when there is inadequate darting)
  

• Backs rest smoothly across the wearer's back without large vertical folds due to excess width or horizontal wrinkles due to inadequate width.
  

• Ease of movement is minimally restricted.
  

• Style, print, and proportion are appropriate for body frame. Sometimes women tend to buy clothing that is too big overall, or too long everywhere (sleeves, blouse, skirts.) The effect is one of "playing dress up." Even if you have a mature, curvy figure, your body frame may be quite small. Large prints and large cuts can overwhelm you. Unfortunately it can be exceedingly difficult to find clothing that fits a large bust or tummy that is not too large in the shoulders and neck and too long in the sleeves and overall. Alterations can often help.

My Favorite Designer

I am not authorized to tell you her name but I will tell you that she is 12 and quite the fashionista. It's good to have a live-in fashion counselor!

Here are some of her designs from the past year. Note: She draws designs on croquis and a sketch pad I purchased from Carol Kimball. She offers a set of croquis with a wide variety of body types - to make designing for self or clients more realistic - and will even make a personalized croquis for your unique body. (She is remarkably accurate and the unique croquis and resulting style sketches really make visualizing different styles on yourself much more effective.) Carol can be reached at csquarew@csquarew.cnc.net
You can also download some basic croquis from Threads.

Some 2006 designs:

This one on the right is one of my favorites b/c I love the bared shoulders and squared off sleeves. I wish it'd scanned better.


On the left is another style with interesting detail I've never seen before. Love the left shoulder bit.

Some newer styles:

The designer doesn't particular like this one, left, but I do....and it's my blog.

The designer likes to wear ties which I'm sure inspired the drawing above.


I like this casual outfit on the right. All three of these 2007 styles were drawn in one sitting. I should be so prolific. (Although sometimes even I can get on a role with these things...someday I'll post some of my drawings too...on croquis they are really not so bad as my "free form" stuff, and there are some interesting costume ideas!)

To best use a croquis, as I learned from Carol, trace it onto tracing or sketch paper. Trace it very lightly in pencil. Then sketch your basic design. You can now, if desired, trace the basics of the design several times on different sheets of paper, the basic outer lines of a dress for example, so you can "audition" several different details on it.

The key to a successful looking fashion drawing from a croquis is to, once you've got the style lines drawn in, to erase the croquis' reference lines. This may seem obvious but it wasn't' to me until she clarified it. I was making photocopies (not tracings) of the croquis, which left me unable to erase any parts of them that ended up under the clothes. Duh.

All About Darts

We'd all be clad in paper bag clothes were it not for darts.

Darts put 3-D shaping into otherwise flat fabric. They allow fullness over a curve, i.e. the bust, without creating too much fullness elsewhere, i.e. the armhole. The fuller the curve, the deeper the dart must be.

Sometimes darts are disguised in seams. A well known example is the princess seam (left). A princess seam is really just a series of darts. A bust dart at the shoulder, a bust dart at the waist, then a hip dart, all connected in one long sewing line (seam).

Lesser known - darting can be incorporated into yokes. The yoke on the back of a blouse or shirt, or the yoke on the back of your jeans. The seam between the yoke and the rest of the garment is really a dart.

There are all kinds of fancy "designer" darts. The elegant French dart (ooo-la-la) extends diagonally upwards towards the bust from the waist at side seam. Check out these "Art Darts" created by a PACC colleague of mine, Ruth Ciemnoczolowski (no one can pronounce it) and featured in Threads Magazine.

Small darts can also be disguised as ease (almost invisible gathering.) Sometimes you do not want a regular sewn dart b/c it will break up the pattern of some beautiful embroidery on the fabric or interrupt the smooth flow of draping silk. I have, in those cases, turned darts into gathers at the upper front side seams or lower front armholes .

I'm sure you have also seen gathers under the bust at an empire seam or midriff band. Those are darts too. Gathers between the bust or on the front shoulder serve the same purpose. It's all about darts.

Ode to Jeans

Jeans are my favorite thing to wear and obviously I'm not the only one. Recently on our PACC forum we had a discussion about just why jeans, despite being especially difficult to fit, are so popular. Comfort and versatility seem to be the most cited benefits of wearing jeans. I have a theory though, that the wearing of jeans has as much to do with fantasy as practicality.

After all, if you are wearing jeans, can you not run from spewing volcanoes, escape savage natives, even rescue women and children in distress? Wearing jeans, you can climb mountains, lay in the grass, change the oil filter, play guitar (folk or heavy metal), take a nap, grocery shop, or, (my personal favorite)...wrangle cattle. Wearing jeans you can shoot bad guys one moment, slip on some glittery shoes, and attend a cocktail party the next.

Am I the only one that feels this way? I mean, aren't jeans the be-all, the for-all, the ready-for-anything fashion staple? They are the dress-down, dress-up, funky, down-to-earth, edgy, conservative, wholesome, daring, and all over I-am-not-overly-concerned-with-my-appearance-but-I-do-look-
good-don't-I garment.

What's more...jeans are American. Like Independence Day American, apple pie American, iPod American.

How can you NOT wear jeans? Honestly, when I wear trousers, pants, slacks, chinos, or even drawers, britches or bloomers (there's a thought, huh?), I can't wait, no matter how comfortable and flattering those may be, to get back in my jeans.

I've never made a pair of jeans except for a doll. But I'd guess it would take me 6-10 hours. When I saw this video, my jaw just about hit the desk. It takes them 13 minutes to make a pair of jeans. No wonder they can sell them for $20! If you cannot run the video, check out this photo series instead. Note especially how the jeans are cut in up to 100 layers of denim at once....this is why you can buy two of the same brand, same size, and still have them fit slightly differently. It's NOT your imagination.

When I was around 10 one of my best friend's mom had a dress shop. Since I never wore very feminine clothes she once called me "Denim Dawn." I still remember it all these years later. I guess she was right!

Shopping by Shape

Recently surfing around various sewing blogs I encountered Erica B's - D.I.Y. Style. Erica has a fun, savvy sense of style that really flatters her curvy figure. (Make sure you see her flickr pages.)

On her 3/30/07 post, Erica has introduced us to a site that allows you to first determine your body shape, then shop for fashions accordingly. The site is myShape.com. Note on the home page there are small brightly colored clickable figures in the upper left navigation column. Each corresponds to a body shape. You can determine which is yours here on the same site. Once you've determined your shape, you can shop for only those garments that work for you.

Of course, even with 7 shapes to choose from, you may not fall exactly into one or the other. I am sort of an S and sort of an A. On myShape then, at least I can view only those items that are suitable to S and/or A and not have to wade through all the others. And once you do a little research on myShape, I'm sure you can apply the same principles shopping elsewhere.

In my 10 years of doing alterations and custom dressmaking I can tell you that there are very, very few "ideal" hourglasses out there. Most women are fuller on top, fuller in the middle, or fuller on the bottom. Even the skinny chicks are not "ideal" proportion wise, and often have just as many fitting issues as do we mere mortals. (I do have one client who used to be a size 8 fit model for the fashion industry in NYC ...hers was the easiest garment I ever made...but she is a definite rarity!)

Other sites that help you to best dress your figure:

Dress for Your Body Type (About.com)
Cosmopolitan Magazine
Fun Fashion/Body Type Quiz (from What Not to Wear)
What You Should Wear Quiz (from What Not to Wear in the UK)
The Golden Rules (What Not to Wear, BBC America - you need a sense of humor for this one!)