Altering Beaded Clothing

I try not to cringe when my client opens her garment bag and reveals a beaded gown, I really do. But altering beaded gowns can really be a PITA.

Here, briefly, are some strategies I've found useful:

• Beware of chain-stitched lines of beads...if you pull the wrong thread, they will come off like a zipper un-zipping.
  
• To stop a chain of beads from un-zipping you must find a loose loop near the last attached bead. You've got to secure that loop. You can thread the thread tail through a needle (the tail will usually be found on the wrong side of the fabric), bring it up to the front, through the loop, and secure it on the back. Or, elongate the loop, bring it to the back and tie it directly to the thread tail at back. Or, often what I do is to thread a length of matching thread on a needle, bring it up somewhere near the loop, through the loop, back underneath, then probably secure further by backstitching through a couple beads.
  
• When altering something with many beads, for example hemming a gown that has scattered beads all around the skirt, I sometimes use a toothpick to place tiny dots of glue behind each bead. That way, if I cut a thread that would allow the beads to un-hitch, the threads are still secured.
• Beads can be removed without disturbing the thread that secures them. This is especially useful when removing beads from a design motif. Use a sturdy pliers to break the beads. Or, some people use a small hammer. Either way, you must place a tissue, fabric, or other shield between the breaking beads and your eyes. They are glass. Also, make sure to vigorously shake out the garment area afterwards to be sure the little glass pieces are gone. I have even vacuumed garments to be sure.
  
• I find that single beads can usually be removed safely without a chain reaction. But pull on neighboring beads to be sure. And save any intact beads you remove in case you need to replace any.
• I remove only as many beads as I think I will need to to sew the seam with a zipper foot. With the zipper foot I can get very close to remaining beads, but it's necessary to go slowly to avoid hitting the beads with the needle, or getting the beads caught in the needle plate and preventing the fabric from feeding.
• Milliner's needles are long and thin, great for working with beads.
• Sequins can usually be cut, and even sewn through, with little consequence.