Pre-shrink Interfacing (and everything else in sight)

Susie asked yesterday why I pre-shrink interfacing and if I pre-shrink even fusibles.

Anything that goes into the construction of the garment must be pre-shrunk in the same way as the face fabric. This includes interfacing, underlining, lining, and stay tapes. If these support materials aren't pre-shrunk, and they shrink later, they will cause pulling, puckering, or bubbling in the face fabric. In fact, I bet many of us have a blouse or dress, probably rayon, in the closet, that has a bubbled inside button facing. We've washed the dress, and the interfacing has shrunk more than the face fabric. So the face fabric is pulled into bubbles.

Often I prefer to use a sew-in on a nice garment that will be machine washed, especially in the collar and/or stand. That way I don't have to worry about bubbling of fusible interfacing. However, in the case of our class nightshirt, the interfacing is used in the facing only and won't be visible on the outside of the garment. Also, I want to teach students how to work with fusibles.

Any interfacing that can be immersed in water I pre-shrink in the sink. I fill the sink with the hottest tap water and immerse the material. I leave it until the sink water cools down to room temp. Then I drain the sink, roll the interfacing in a towel to remove excess water, and hang the piece over the shower rod. (My kids and their friends are used to this phenomenon in our bathroom.)

I have a friend (Beth) who has pre-shrunk fusible interfacing in the washer and dryer with good results, but I haven't been that adventurous yet (the danger is that the heat of the dryer could melt the glue of the interfacing, or the tumbling could cause some of the glue to come off.)

For sew-ins, tapes, linings and underlinings, I use the same procedure. If I have a special interfacing for tailoring (like hair canvas) then I may steam shrink instead. But I have immersed Arco canvas interfacing and weft insertion interfacings with no problems.

For silk organza (used most often as underlining) I usually just throw a bunch in with my wash right through both machines.

Some people even pre-shrink zippers but I never have and haven't noticed any ill effects.

When I need to pre-shrink interfacings and linings that cannot be immersed I usually spread them out on a flat surface (my bed) and use the steamer on them. If you don't have a steamer you can use an iron (careful of drips) or have the yardage dry cleaned and steam pressed.

Sometimes I really don't think something is going to shrink at all...like polyester lining. But I pre-shrink it anyway just for the sake of my mental health.