With Nap Layout

I almost always use a with nap layout, no matter the fabric. Sometimes a fabric may have a very subtle nap, or direction, and you do not want to find this out after the garment is made, the first time you wear it outside and the sun hits you just so.

Nap, or direction, refers to a fabrics one-way qualities.

Nap usually refers to a one-way texture. These are fabrics like velvet or corduroy, on which your fingers leave a "trail" when run along the lengthwise grain. These fabrics also tend to look darker or lighter, matte or shiny, depending on your lengthwise perspective. If you cut a gored skirt on one of these fabrics without regard to nap, then some of the gores will look darker than others.

Note: Satins and other "flat" fabrics might also have nap/direction. Be careful!

Directional fabrics may also have a pattern or print that is not symmetrical lengthwise. Fabric with printed trees is a good example. Most will want all the trunks pointing to the feet and leaves towards the head. (But, hey, you're the designer!)

Because I often have a hard time determining whether a fabric has nap or direction, I have gotten into the habit of always using what the pattern companies call a "with nap" layout. Simply put, I lay out my pattern pieces so that the "head ends" are at one end and the "feet ends" at the other.

Here is my daughter's long awaited winter coat being cut, (on the floor b/c I was not sure I'd have enough fabric and wanted to make sure I could get all pieces on before cutting)...

There is a subtle nap to this wool. It is difficult to see, but lightly running one's fingertips along it lengthwise reveals that it has a slight pile that feels smoother in one direction. I am cutting so the nap "runs downward," or so that it feels smoothest from neck to hem. That is traditional. However, as I said, you are the designer. I have also cut things the other way, in order to get a deeper looking color.

Notes: See the collar pieces that extend past the fabric fold? One, the piece on the left, is smaller. That is the under collar piece. The piece to the right is the upper collar piece and it is bigger. Experienced sewers know that whenever you are turning a collar, at least one that does not have a separate stand, the upper piece must be relatively bigger or the under collar will peek out from underneath, wrinkle, bunch up, and cause the points to turn up, looking very unprofessional. When a pattern gives you one collar piece only and instructs you to "cut two," one for upper and one for under collars, that is a bad pattern. You must either re-draft the piece to make an under collar pattern that is smaller around the outer edge and point, or trim the under collar after cutting (do not trim the neck edge.) This is due to turn of cloth and I hope to get out a detailed post on the subject after the holidays.

Additionally, I hope to post about making under collars bias. I have not yet pinned these collars to the layout because I haven't decided if I will make a bias under collar. Bias under collars curl around the neck more easily and gracefully. Again, I would like to post on this in more detail when I have a bit more time to give it the attention it deserves. But if you are cutting an under collar now, feel free to write for more info.