Interfacing Issues

Inevitably in a beginner's sewing class I'm asked what interfacing is for. It provides structure, shape, reinforcement, and strength to certain areas of a garment.

Also invariably, students come to class with inappropriate interfacing. Everyone does it, I did it too. In fact, sometimes I bring to class one of the first dresses I made for my daughter that has what I call the "cardboard collar." I'd used interfacing much too heavy and the result was a stiff, unyielding, platter-like collar. Oh, the dress was still adorable and she wore it quite a few times. Hey, we're all learning.

So, I thought I'd share some of my interfacing samples with you. I'm by no means an expert on interfacing. But whenever I acquire a new variety, I snip a swatch, record the details such as source, content, and properties, and file it in a folder. You can also purchase interfacing sample kits from online retailers including Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics.

I often buy interfacing from Sawyer Brook or The Sewing Place. Tailoring supply companies or fine fabrics retailers often have good selections.

Part of the problem for beginners is the lack of selection at the local fabric shops, especially the chain stores. However, most do carry at least a couple alternatives, you just have to look between the bolts and bolts of Pellon© to find it. You can almost always find So-Sheer©, below. I often buy So-Sheer when it's 40% off, several yards at a time, and pre-wash it ahead of time.Now, it's not like non-woven interfacings such as Pellon© (top photo) are the work of the devil or anything, and I do see it inside some very pricey ready-to-wear. Let's face it, it's cheap and easy to come by. But often it's used in weights much too heavy and even in the featherweight it can add a bit too much stiffness to a project.

Sof-Knit© stretches in all directions:
This is fairly stable in one direction:
I like fusible woven for backing buttonholes and for crisp collars:
Here are several interfacings appropriate for structured, tailored garments:
Here is some general advice on choosing interfacing:

• When in doubt, try fusing or basting generous swatches of interfacings to your fabric and comparing the hand of each.
  
• Keep in mind that fusibles can be very tricky when items will be washed over and over. (For a blouse or pants I like to use self-fabric or other sew in support.)
  
• If you are unsure of interfacing weight, go with the lighter product. You can always add another layer later if need be.
  
• Interfacing need not be "interfacing." You can use cotton batiste or other woven cottons, even flannel. You can use self-fabric. Silk organza or silk chiffon work well for very lightweight garments. Use what best helps you achieve the desired effect.
• Remember your interfacing (usually) must behave like your garment fabric. If your garment stretches, your interfacing must stretch as well.
• Sometimes you want your interfacing to behave differently than your garment fabric. For example, you may interface a V-neck with woven interfacing cut so the straight grain of the interfacing stabilizes the bias grain of the garment fabric. Or, you may use the most stable grain of interfacing behind a buttonhole in an unstable fabric. Conversely, you might cut interfacing on a bias or stretchy grain to support an on-grain upper collar in a more supple way than on-grain interfacing would. Or cut bias interfacing to back the front of a bodice or jacket front, adding to the weight of the hand without adding too much stiffness.