Sewing Machine Needles

Many sewers, even those that have been sewing for years, do not realize the wide variety of needles that are easily available today. Next to improper threading and tension, inappropriate needle type or size is probably the next common cause of (needless) sewing frustrations.

Needles don't last forever. In fact, most sources recommend changing needles after 4-6 hours of sewing. I probably use mine longer than that, especially the common sizes. But I am always aware of signs of needle wear, and always willing to start a fresh needle on any delicate fabric.

Typically, the most obvious sign of a damaged needle is skipped stitches. This will appear as a stitch that is 2-3 X longer than all the other stitches. That is a sign to change needles.

On fine or closely woven fabrics, such as China silk (habutoi) or satin, a damaged needle will create pulls. So, when working with those fabrics, always start with a fresh needle.

Here, then, is a summary of needle types and their most common applications:

• Sharps - These have a traditional sharp point and work well for closely woven fabrics, either as delicate as silk organza, or as heavy as denim or duck.
  
• Jeans/Denim - Sturdy sharps intended for denims and other heavy fabrics.
  
• Microtex - These are even sharper than sharps, and are intended for the most closely woven, finest fibers such as Supplex. They're also great for silks and satins.
  
• Topstitching - Sharp needles with larger eyes to accommodate thicker topstitching threads and reduce friction with those threads.
• Embroidery - Also designed to reduce friction with threads, especially delicate embroidery threads such as rayon.
• Metallica - Designed to prevent delicate metallic threads from fraying into oblivion during topstitching or embroidery.
• Leather - Have cutting edge tips for actually making holes in the leather for the thread to pass through.
• Universal - Used for all-purpose sewing on most fabrics. I rarely use them for knits, though, and prefer to use a ball point, below.
  
• Ball point/Jersey - Made to travel between, not cut, knitted fabric fibers. Tee-shirt fabric, sweater knits, etc...
• Stretch - Used for knit fabrics with a substantial lycra/spandex content like swim or dance fabrics. Also helpful if you are going to be stitching through elastic.
• Wing - This odd looking needle (which has a flatted scarf and looks like an angry king cobra) is used in heirloom sewing to create holes in fabric for pin-stitching/hem-stitching.
• Double and Triple - Used to make 2 or three parallel rows of straight topstitching. Double needles are also used often to make pintucks. The bobbin thread zigzags between the rows of straight stitching on the top of the fabric. Be careful with these...using a zigzag stitch may cause you to hit the needle plate.

Needle sizes are just as important as needle type. Start with an 80/12 on most quilting weight fabrics. Use a 70/10 or 60/8 for silks. 90/14 up to 110/18 on denim and upholstery fabrics. Generally, use the smallest needle that will work for your fabric.