Beginning Silk - Part 2

This is a follow up to Beginning Silk Part 1.

Silk Charmeuse

You have to love silk charmeuse (shar-moose) for it's fluid drape. It's like wearing water. It has a satin finish and a crepe back. It is lustrous, but not "shiny" like synthetic satins. Bias cut, there is nothing more elegant. It is bias silk charmeuse that you drool over watching the stars parade down red carpets.

I have used silk charmeuse several times, all bias. First, several years ago, I used it for a client's dress to be worn in her beach-side wedding. A "simple" slip dress of bias silk georgette over charmeuse. She is a beautiful girl and the simple lines were stunning on her. Unfortunately the only pictures I have of the dress are on her body, and I haven't been able to get in touch with her to obtain permission to post them.

I had a very difficult time with this project, my first time with bias silks. I learned that you must leave huge seam allowances (i.e., 1 1/2 - 2") when working with bias cuts, and either pre-stretch the fabric, or be prepared to re-cut it. It grows so much when hanging, that the waist and hip shaping move down on the body and must be re-adjusted after fitting. Also, you don't want any lateral, around the body, stretching at all, or the seams will ripple. It must just skim and flow over the body. Keep shaping to a minimum and within seams, not darts.

One thing I really enjoyed about this project were the tiny, tiny bias tubes I made for the straps. I stretched the heck out of the bias strips as I sewed them. Then, after turning them over a needle I saturated them in water and hung them, weighted, from a curtain rod for 24 hours. They came out so tiny and delicate! I still have a piece pinned to my bulletin board , and here it is:A tip...rather than have her wear a strapless bra, we removed the straps from her best fitting bra and replaced them with another set of the bias tubing straps. So it looks like the dress has 2 spaghetti straps on each side, but one set is from her bra.

For another client I made a nightgown. I used a heavier charmeuse for this (30 momme, if I remember right) and prewashed and dried it by machine. It gets a bit sandy looking in the wash.
I also used bias charmeuse in my LBD and its slip, and for the contrast neckbands in my kimono wrap top. (I talk about the difficulties I had with the charmeuse in the latter case here.)

For a really inspiring use of silk charmeuse, check out mermaids' creation here.

Charmeuse can be difficult to work with b/c it slips and slides. You may need to hand baste seams before machine sewing. Use fine pins and a fine, sharp, machine needle as holes may be permanent.

My favorite source for silk charmeuse is Thai Silks. Periodically different types of silk go on sale...so keep checking the sale page. The charmeuse prints are astounding.

Silk Chiffon

I honestly get confused between chiffon and georgette sometimes. I believe that chiffon is plain-woven and georgette is woven of crepe fibers, or highly twisted fibers. Either, in silk, is very lightweight and ephemeral. This blouse was made for my Mom:
(Note circular flounces at neckline and sleeves.) Edges in these featherweight silks look lovely with a serged rolled hem, a fishline hem, or a hand or machine done narrow hem. For the latter, if you are having trouble controlling the fabric, try starching it lightly.

Silk Crepes

This is another confusing category since crepes can be woven in quite a few different ways. I have seen crepes classified as "four-ply" or "Korean weave" or "faille." They are generally heavier silks, lustrous but without obvious sheen like satin. They're often used for more structured pieces such as dress and jacket combinations or ladies' suits. This pink faille jacket went over a dress and was made for a mother of the groom :Crepe is easier to work with than charmeuse because it is not as slippery and has more body. However you need to be aware of needle marks. And since crepes are often used in more structured garments, you will need to consider interfacings and support. I like fusi-knit interfacing for these fabrics. Or silk organza underlining. Try interfacing the sleeve cap area or using a very soft sleeve head to support the silk there as well. You will need some kind of underlining or interfacing in the hem area at least, to prevent hem stitches from showing.

I have never heard of anyone washing crepe...probably best to dry clean.

Silk Velvet

Silk velvet is a beautiful thing. It is actually not pure silk, but a blend with rayon. It is not as shiny as synthetic velvet, it is more subtle in its luster. The pile is also generally shorter than synthetics.

And, oh, the prints!!!! The hand-painted velvets and the burnouts. They are wondrous to behold. All you need is a scarf made with one of these stunners to make an outfit into something special. Thai silks has so many of these it's dizzying.

I have used silk velvets in scarves and in my LBD. It is difficult to use b/c it is very slippery and tends to shift both horizontally and vertically while sewing, but no more difficult than synthetic velvet. You may want to hand baste seams before attempting to machine sew. Then use an even feed foot for best results. Beware of permanent needle marks.

Silk velvet can be washed. I would do a test swatch first. In fact, you can purchase "washed" silk velvets at Thai silks. They are beautiful in their own right, with a bit more of a casual, slightly weathered look.


***There are many other types of silk of course. There's silk taffeta, duchesse satin, suitings, shantung (similar to dupioini), gauze, gazar, tussah, jersey, even silk tulle. I've only talked about those with which I have a passing experience.